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New wind, new start, new goals

‘I don’t know anything with certainty, but seeing the stars makes me dream.’ (Vincent Van Gogh)

 

A few weeks ago, I had a rest week, I did other sports, like squash; and it was so different to watch a competition and not take part in it.

I had a long season and I feel that I really needed this week to recharge after a lot of training, climbing and unfortunately I also had some not so serious, but more frustrating injuries during the year.

In the summer I went to Rocklands, South Africa, with my boyfriend Tibi and Zoli. We spent there 3 and a half amazing weeks. I’ve met great people, new places. It was so peaceful, with beautiful sunsets, and really dark nights with the Milky Way. We stayed at the campsite, close to the nature. We climbed a lot, and on the rest days we tried to discover some other places. For example, we hiked up to the Table Mountain, visited Cape Point, checked some penguins at the Boulders Beach, saw some baboons. I’ve never felt this freedom before. It was really sad to come home, and definitely 3 and a half weeks are not enough for Rocklands. I had a big challenge during almost the all trip. I injured my left knee, and due to this injury I couldn’t make a heel hook with it. First, I was sad, but then it became more like a challenge, how to solve problems without my favourite heel hooks. My right toe hook technic developed a lot. 🙂 It was a kind of fun.

The boulders I’ve sent:

  • Macho King 7C+
  • Caroline 7C+
  • An Amal Roof 7C
  • Black Spider 7C (flash)
  • Un petit Hueco dans Rocklands 7B+ (f)
  • The Rhino 7B+ (2nd)
  • Panic Room Direct 7B (f)
  • The Potato Problem 7B (f)
  • Lolita 7B (f)
  • Question of Balance 7B (2nd)

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Then I had a national boulder cup, and after it, I went to Café Kraft to get more Kraft. 🙂 8 days of training camp. I had a nice time, it was too hot there, but the gym is air-conditioned, so I could train a lot and swim at the beach to cool down a bit. On a sunny Saturday, I had an amazing and really motivating training partner, Mayan Smith-Gobat. Here is a video of our training:

And the top of everything, I became a member of The Café Kraft Team. It is a huge honor. It was awesome to have Café Kraft as a home.

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I took part in the World Cup in Munich. I felt much stronger than last year, but still unexperienced on big events.

I went to Magic Wood in the end of August with Tibi, my brother András and Zoli. The rain was really frustrating and unfortunately I injured my right index finger, and I couldn’t crimp this small crimp of Down Under anymore. I was disappointed and angry. But we met 2 great guys from Brazil, Davi and Linha. 🙂

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During the autumn I visited the Café Kraft 2 times. The 2nd time I had a training camp again. I had the chance to touch some rock at  Bärenschlucht with Dicki. I haven’t climbed with a harness on for a really long time. I got pumped, but so pumped.. I tried to train as much as I could, and I had a great training partner, Davi. Training partners are so important, you can motivate each other during the hard days, when you feel really tired and not too happy about the hangboard day. One day, I was totally tired, but Hannes came and spoke about his projects for the next year. He was super happy and positive. His motivation just sticked on me and I woke up, and did a killer hangboard with Davi. This is how it works at Café Kraft, in the heart of the Frankenjura. Thanks again for everything, and for the place to stay, Hotel Frankenjura! 🙂

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This year I won the Hungarian National Boulder Championship again.

I took part in the 10th Autopolis Vertigo Open in Bratislava, and became 3rd. I was horrible in the qualis (I couldn’t sleep the night before and had some stomach problems), but I really enjoyed the final problems.

After all of these, I decided to have to take a week rest, before starting my new training plan.

Now, I am training hard, I think harder than ever before since almost 3 weeks (it has a 4 week periodisation). I have 5 trainings a week, I feel totally tired at the moment, lack of skin (Monkey Fist addict). Sometimes I feel so broken in the morning, but I know that I have my goal, I am committed to it. And of course, I am really interested in the result. The sweat, the time, the devotion. It pays off. 😉

Thanks to my sponsors, 3rd Rock, Boreal, Café Kraft and Monkey Fist for all the support this year! And also to my family, Tibi and my friend, Davi!

 

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The summer is over!

Any idea how to go back in time?
Part I
On the 7th of July evening I arrived home after a really special touching and magical trip. It was one of the best times in my life. Maybe it sounds cliché, but just imagine: you travel a lot, meet your friends and new friends, climbing, having fun. What else do you need? Emotions to the brim. I was a bit sad that this time passed, but curious about the next! ☺On the 26th of June morning, I was so excited to return to Nürnberg by a train & bus combination. It was my second time at Café Kraft. And the miracle happened again! ☺
I spent 11 awesome days there, I trained at Café Kraft. Thank you, Hannes and Reto for everything! And everyone from Café Kraft! ☺
And I got the chance to go to the Frankenjura with the most motivating and supporting team I’ve ever had. Mayan, Dicki and Alex, you are the best! Thank you for these days! You made me so happy and honestly, I felt like I am home. I miss you!
I am so happy to have a summer like this! I travelled a lot; meet my friends and new ones, lot of new experiences, and fun. Maybe it is a bit late, but all the memories in my mind are as clear as, they’ve just happened…
I think it would be too long to write about everything. A lot of thing happened to me there. We climbed a lot of course. But I went to a festival with Dicki and his family, and supported Dicki and Patrick on a 10 km running race. Dicki was so fast! Congratulations! We went there by bike…Can you imagine how hard is to ride a bike in a mini leather skirt? After this experience, I can tell you, it’s really hard. ☺ But I felt like it’s the best choice for the night for a rock concert. And yes in the end of the concert, even I was jumping a bit! But Dicki, his wife and their friends were dancing really cool. There is always something to learn! ☺ Dicki always brings the sunshine into my life! Such a happy night!!!I had an awesome training session with Achim at Café Kraft. After it we had a massive muscle strain. He is so friendly and helpful; even I got a giant cookie, after a long day. I bet on that Achim would get the „Our best worker 2014” award, if there was one. Or Lena… ☺It was the first time, when I saw how a real climbing movie is made. They told me all the ingredients what you need:
•       Interviews
•       Climbing
•       and some bugs ☺This day also I studied the most important thing. Always look good! Dicki was so happy when he saw Alex’s cool red pants and yellow T-shirt. Dicki said it took a long time (years), but finally, it worths it. Really stylish. Geil.We had a cool barbecue together at Alex; He is the master of BBQ. ☺On the next day Alex and Mayan took me to Leupoldstein. Such a great day! If Mayan supports..cool..and simply just works. Alex were laying on the top of the rock, watched down and helped me from there. Maximal support! It’s not possible to give more! Thank you! Or even so..Alex taught me a faster and simpler knot. ☺I had one rest day during the 11 days. I went to the Doku Zentrum. Impressive museum! It really worths to visit if you are in Nürnberg. I found quite interesting The Nürnberg Trials. In the evening Alex took me to the theatre to watch his sister. It was funny… I don’t speak german..but it was a comedy, so mostly I got it. ☺ It was fun, thank you for the invitation Alex!On the days when I couldn’t go to climb outside. For example, Dicki went to Imst to the Paraclimbing World Cup. Or Alex went to his sister’s Abibal. Or I just missed the meeting with Mayan and Alex because of a 50 minutes delay of the train. I was angry! :S So on those days, I went to Café Kraft, the best place for training. Great opportunities and the best is that you can always find motivated guys to train with.
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Dicki sent me this pic with Andris (the only Hungarian paraclimber) from Imst

On my last day I wanted to see my friends one more time. I went to climb with Alex. It was a pleasure to belay him on one of his projects. Then Dicki and Mayan arrived. Finally! And I met Felix Neumarker. I don’t know how they feel but for me surely the happiest climbing day!I spent my last night at Alex and his family, also Felix stayed there. Alex and Felix together are unbelievable funny. Monday I had a really early bus, at 5:45. Alex took me to the bus station, and he didn’t let me to carry my luggage. He is absolutely a gentleman! I cannot be glad enough!!Somehow leaving Nürnberg seems the hardest for me. How did I feel? Like a hurricane in my head, all the feelings were turning around. I had a big fight with my tears.. I watched up to the sky, tried to calm down. No, impossible. The feeling enchanted me. I lost the fight.. I cried. What a crazy fairy tale?Thank you all my friends, for all the support, for place to sleep, and for everything I got. You made me really happy!!! ☺
I just can’t wait to see you again!
Part II
I just spent 2 days at home. Then I was on my way again. This time with Tibi and the destination was Magic Wood. Second time this year! ☺ We were really excited to meet our friends from Wales, Charlie and Tim!Magic Wood was wet, so the next day we went to Chironico with a quite big and crazy group. Charlie said that we should try Powerstrips (7C). It is with a quite crimpy beginning and a really high slabby top out. You know, a kind of boulder when you think, ok I did the crux, you feel happy, but then you realize it’s so high and that tree behind your back is really close… maybe too close… Simply just scary! But we did it! ☺ Huge respect to Charlie! Once she did the crux, she was at the scary-slabby top out part and she got panic (Tim helped her… like Romeo… just climbed up on the tree and saved her… Was so romantic! And after this frightening try, she tried again and did it. What fortitude! It was her first 7C, congrats! We were so happy!
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Powerstrips (7C)

In the end of this day we wanted to check one more boulder, Autopilot 7B. Nice roof problem with a double heel hook. It was totally dark in the forest; we saw some lighting flies, so beautiful. Gracie sent Autopilot! ☺  My heel slipped off and I landed just next to the pad on the rock with my tibia. Was so painful, bloody and scary! I got some antiseptic tissue from Gracie, thank you! Charlie and I decided to come back to this one on another day!Next day we stayed at Magic Wood, mostly I just checked around, how it is, a lot of things were wet still. I was happy to flash The Mummy (7B). At the end of the day, we joined Charlie, Tim, Linda, Niels and Jack for a dinner. For the restaurant we had to cross a quite high mountain with full of turns and cows. ☺ And what did we find on the other side? Italy! Montespluga, and a friendly Italian restaurant next to a lake. So pretty place! And the best Italian food so far! It was the ‘Good bye-dinner’ of Charlie and Tim. We ate almost everything… pizza, ice cream, coffee, maybe too much, but I was really happy that night!
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On the way to Montespluga, the best place to eat a pizza

Then, on the last day of Charlie and Tim, we went back to Chronico. We did some warm up, and then went for Autopilot. Charlie did it easily! But my right heel wasn’t fit for that small place. And in bad times you can see who your friend is. Charlie offered me her right shoe. And guess what? I did Autopilot with this combination of shoes. ☺ Thank you! After this we tried Selection Door 7A, really nice problem with a reach move but I did it with my ‘long’ left arm! 😉
Charlie and I bet on who is going to make a one arm pull up earlier. Don’t forget it Charlie!!! ☺
[vimeo http://vimeo.com/101287250]
Charlie and I bet on who is going to make a one arm pull up earlier. Don’t forget it Charlie!!! ☺
On Monday our friends left. However I was really excited, cause my brother came with a group of young Hungarian guys!
We had 3 great climbing days together. My brother and our friend Zoli climbed Jack the chipper (7C).
Tibi bought a small grill for 5 euros before the trip… and it worked very well. We had a really tasty dinner… finally not pasta!Next day, we climbed just next to Zilliman (a cool 7A), Waldbrand 7C. My brother, András and I did it on second try. I felt really happy.
In the end of the day we refreshed ourselves in the river. Was so damn cold! But you know, in a big group it is getting more fun and challenge than a freezing nightmare. And the feeling after this cold refreshing water is priceless. You feel clean, fresh like a rebirth.On the last day we were suffering from lack of skin. Fortunately we found Minisex 7C in the forest, looked like a really cool problem! And yes, it was so much fun. Technical problem in a roof and you need to dance around with your feet, with a toe hook and a top out. I did it in 4 tries (my brother also) and the only point was to concentrate on your left biceps, so I was speaking to it in my mind: ‘Come on, hold me!’ It worked! ☺
After Minisex I tried Piranha but couldn’t do the big move… and I finished for this day. But my brother did Intermezzo 7C on his second try.
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Piranha

We spent nice days in Magic Wood but it was time to leave to France. However we would like to go back as soon as possible.So we continued our trip in L’Argentière-la-Bessée. We stayed in a camping which had a warm shower too. Luxury! ☺
On Sunday we climbed in Freissinières. Soma found a quite short 7A+ with a small roof. It was a quite tricky one, it was fun to climb with him. And you know when you are with a group of young guys… they have a lot of (sometimes too much) jokes. Like here this No Name  7a+ after a misunderstanding became 7 anus… Got it? ☺
In the evening, we went to watch the finals of the Lead World Cup in Briancon. We were there, but the weather didn’t let it happen. The rain and hail washed the competition away. We were disappointed, and really without dry clothes or shoes… after it the hot tea was so good in the tent.
I watched the European Youth Bouldering Cup in L’Argentiére. My brother was a bit unlucky; he fell from the top on 3 problems. Our friend, David Firnenburg climbed very well in the qualification round. After it he said to us: He is going to flash all the 4 final problems. Guess what? He did it!! Amazing performance! ☺
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My Bro’

Later we took part in the open competition, Tout A Blocs with a lot of boulders. Unfortunately I got a bit injured. My left elbow moved into the wrong way. So I visited the physiotherapist’s tent, just next to the boulder wall. He said my body and my muscles are dehydrated, all I should do: Drink and Relax! Next time I should be more careful, and drink enough! However I had a big fight with boulder 22, I fell from the top 3 times. The crowd was amazing, and Christopher, the speaker said if I do it, he will give me a beer. This way I got it:
It was a nice trip, but time to go home! ☺
Part III
In the end of August, one of the biggest climbing events came. The IFSC Bouldering World Championship in Munich!
Last year, I decided to take part in it because I saw my brother’s pictures from a youth cup with the national T-shirt and my memories came to my mind. Old times, good times!I went there with Tibi. I was impressed. Such a serious and huge event! I had no expectations! I just wanted to participate as the only Hungarian. It was a good experience. I learnt a lot. Bouldering developed a lot in the last few years. It became more acrobatic, dynamic and much more spectacular, with a lot of volumes, jumps and compression climbing. Looks like fun. Actually it is, but so hard if you don’t have volumes, and experience in this kind of bouldering. I felt really amateur. I think if you are a top boulder competitor, you need all the power: strength, endurance, explosive power, body tension and practice a lot this special kind of bouldering. The venue and the crowd were amazing! During the competition, you could buy special CAC (Climbers Against Cancer) T-shirts to support a good cause, also I got one from Tibi. It was a real pleasure to see the power of this huge crowd! John Ellison, founder of CAC, was so touched by the crowd’s support during the Climbers Against Cancer donation of €13333 to cancer research, just before the finals. ☺ Emotional moments! In the isolation zone I met Sean McColl, after a really long time. He was friendly and asked me about my future plans, if I will start competing again or not. Great question! I think boulder world cups are hard when you don’t have the best opportunities. However I enjoyed the competition, so I want to give it a try. I will train smart with these possibilities, as Dicki said: ‘Train smart, climb hard!’ I won’t cry more about what I don’t have. I am glad about my life; I think it is a really special and awesome one!
In addition, a few Hungarian boulder gyms developed with different kind of training equipments and also they just got some triangle volumes. I am excited about the future! After Munich we went to Follonica, Italy. To relax, take some sun, and swim in the sea.
On our way back to Hungary, we stopped in Vienna. I had a special meeting with Ognian from Boreal. I haven’t seen him for a really long time! And the times when we met were priceless. So, simply I was just excited. We went for a nice boulder session to Boulderbar, and then for a lunch. It was so nice to see him again! And I just can’t wait to try the new Boreal climbing shoes! I have a special connection with Boreal. I got my first climbing shoes as a Christmas present, a pair of Boreal Stinger. Since that time (2000), I only climb in Boreal shoes. And I am proud to be a member of the Boreal Team.
Now, I am back in Hungary. It’s September, so time to study and train as well! But I wish everyone such an intensive, emotional and happy summer like I had! ☺
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When your dream becomes true or even more..

Everything started with an e-mail to Café Kraft. Then I was sitting on the bus, heading to Nürnberg. It took 11 hours to get there. Fortunately, my friend, Dezső came to pick me up at the middle of the night. Dezső and Ramona let me to stay with them at Roth, thanks!! I arrived at 02.30, and I had a meeting with Dicki Korb, one of the authors of Gimme Kraft! book. I could sleep only 3 hours, but I was super excited and I decided to try to do my best.I was at Café Kraft around 10, so I had 1 hour untill the meeting. When I entered into Café Kraft, I just walked around and I couldn’t believe my eyes, it’s just huge and amazing.And then Dicki came. First he thought, I am from Bulgaria, I really don’t know why, but it was funny. I had amazing time with Dicki. He has a huge heart and inexhaustible amount of jokes. 🙂 I think the best thing in Dicki is that he knows a lot of exercises, but he also has a special personality. He really wants to help you. He gives his heart with the useful exercises and tips, too. For me, the best thing was that I was not alone anymore with my training. He was there, just next to me, he pushed me, and supported my low self confidence. He believes in me. After that I was just happy, and started to think positive about myself. I guess there is no better word for this feeling, simply just PRICELESS.I trained 3 days at Café Kraft before Magic Wood. In these days I met a lot of new friends, Ramona, who smiled a lot, and her rats (Amy, Réka). Achim and almost all the workers of Café Kraft. Everyone was friendly and helpful.
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Amy (Ramona’s rat) and Tibi

I had the chance to climb with Mayan, we worked on a black travers, it was cool. She is a really nice person. And I mean nice inside and outside, cause she has a good heart and a lot of amazing, colorful clothes. 🙂 It was quite motivating to climb together. I’m happy to meet her, and I hope to see her soon!I met Hannes and Reto, they are awesome!! I got a really cool box of gifts, and the chance to train here more in the future. THANK YOU FOR ALL! 🙂
After these unbelievable days at Café Kraft, I went with Tibi to Magic Wood. The weather was so cold (-4 degrees at night), but I got a really warm jumper from Ramona, I guess, it saved my life. Thanks again!
Magic Wood was my first real outdoor boulder trip. I went there without expectations. I just wanted to have fun and enjoy climbing. I was still under the feelings, that I got from Dicki and Café Kraft. Magic Wood was beautiful, even with the half wolf-dog. 🙂 I climbed a lot and met new people there, too. My favourite couple from Wales, Charlie and Tim. We spent really nice days together. And a special thanks to Charlie to show me nice boulders. Like La Boume de Luxe (7b) with the sharp spike, and specially for Exclusive (7b). Even I didn’t want to climb that day, because of my shoulder pain, but it looked so cool, when Charlie climbed it. 🙂 Charlie and Tim showed us how to make perfect MARSHMALLOW. Such a great night!
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Marshmallow night
For one day we were 6. Charlie, Tim, Tom, Tim (actually Timothy), Tibi and me. This was the funniest day in Magic Wood. We climbed a lot, and Timothy asked our names all day long, between every blocks; Hi Tim, I am Nóra, I am 23 years old. We did the really high Blue Sky of Mine. Tim’s shoe fell into the deepest hole of a hole, then Tim fell into a hole (Don’t worry, he is fine!), we had a lot of fun, and this day we tried Jack the chipper (7c) together. I liked it, it starts with a long shouldery move to the left. I felt that I can do it, I was close, but I got tired. However, I really wanted to do it, so it was my first real project in my life. 🙂
We had some rainy days, so we visited Lago di Lei with Tibi. For me it was beautiful, for Tibi scary. 🙂 And unfortunately Charlie and Tim went home. 🙁 I was a bit sad, but we will meet again, I am sure!
I met David Firnenburg, he is so strong and so friendly. While we climbed together, I learnt these:
·      body-tension
·      explosive-power
·      just go for it
·      how to get the best friction 🙂
·      and that we need to warm up for jumping down 🙂
We warmed up together, climbed a slab, jump down, then a 7a+ travers, and then I was ready to try Jack the chipper again. After David’s siesta, I did it! I was so happy 🙂 Thanks to Tibi and David for the support! We lost David’s red tape, there was a serious investigation (Detective Tibi checked his videos). Guess, where was the red tape?  It was really deep in a hole. What a surprise! :)We decided to leave Magic Wood after 10 days, cause the weather forecast said more rainy days. I had a lot of new experiences about bouldering outside, and I have more new friends. I have new records: Jack the chipper, and that I didn’t have a real shower for 10 days, but I’m not too proud of the 2nd one. :)So, we went back to Café Kraft. 4 more days to train there, woohoo! It was a pleasure to meet Dicki’s family. Also Mayan was there again, I met Melissa le Nevé and Alex Megos. They were really friendly, too. There was no chance to climb with Alex, he climbed too fast :), all the sienna (the hardest) boulders in one hour, and in the next hour all the reds (hard). He said that he is just a man. I really don’t know, maybe from an other planet. Amazing performance! 🙂
During these 4 days we climbed a lot, almost all of us was destroyed somehow, but I enjoyed it so much. For me Café Kraft is much more than a huge boulder gym, it’s like a huge family. We had a lot of fun together, we had new ideas. For example, about Dicki’s new books: Gimme Balance, Gimme Flexibility, Gimme Hot Pants or Gimme Food. :)I got much more than I could ever imagine, maybe that’s why I cried a bit when I left Café Kraft. These were the tears of happiness! 🙂 I really don’t like to say goodbye.Thank you for all these amazing feelings! Thank you, Dicki, Café Kraft, and all of my new friends! I just can’t wait to come back and see you again! 🙂